Ask Rick Maybury 2014



Ask Rick 304 12/04/14


Flix Tricks

My son and daughter-in-law-bought me a six months’ subscription to Netflix. I registered immediately connected my iPad to the TV using an HDMI cable and adaptor, tapped the icon and the Netflix website duly appeared on the TV. When I tried to watch a film however, it ran for a second or so and the message ‘Cannot Play Video The connected display is not supported’ appeared on my iPad. I upgraded the HDMI cable and even attempted to retrieve the latest version of the Netflix app but the same message appeared. I rang Netflix support, who asked me which version of the iPad I had. It is an iPad 3 and to my horror I was told Netflix only supports iPad 4. Apparently there is a security issue, I cannot upgrade my iPad, nor can I afford a smart TV, so am stuck with a subscription I cannot use.

Andrew Baxter, by email


It is difficult to say who is ultimately responsible but if the growing number of fellow sufferers in the forums are anything to go by neither Apple nor Netflix have been very helpful in attempting to sort it out. Your particular problem is probably due to an update of the Netflix app, rather than the version number of your iPad. Unfortunately the old working app is no longer available through the normal channels and the unofficial versions that are floating around the web can only be installed on an iPad that has been hacked or jailbroken. Others with previously working Netflix connections have been cut off following the release of iOS 7. In some cases the latest version of the Netflix app (V5.2), in early March fixes both issues. If not there are a couple of other things to try. Some users have got it to work by going to the iPad’s Settings menu, then Apps, select the Netflix app, switch the Wi-Fi option off and then back on again. Another possibility is to change the HDMI adaptor and it appears that that the cheaper, non-Apple branded 30-pin to HDMI adaptors, available from Amazon and ebay do work on an iPad 3, iOS 7, Netflix V5.2 combination.


Moving Office

My Del desktop computer came with Microsoft Office 2010 preinstalled. I have no disc but I do have the licence. I am purchasing a laptop to replace the desktop and wonder if it is possible to transfer Office to the new computer?

Liz Norsworthy, by email


Probably not, but there is an easy way to check. The three most common types of licence for Microsoft Office are designated FPP, OEM and MLK. FPP or Full Packaged Product covers the boxed, retail version. OEM or Original Equipment Manufacturer is for licensed pre-installed software, bundled by system builders and most likely the one that you have. Lastly there is MLK or Medial Licensing Kit, which is for the trial version of Office also pre-installed by system builders and unlocked when the license fee is paid. Only FPP licenses can be transferred, but to see which one you have check the code on the Product Key Label sticker, which should be on the back of the case. If by some chance you have the FPP version all you have to do is download the correct trial version of Office 2010 from, then for instructions on how to transfer your licence go to


Volume Leveller

I store my music library, a mixture of CD rips and downloads as individual mp3 files on my PC and treat it like a hi-fi using Windows Media Player. The problem is the sound level of individual tracks varies considerably. This makes for uncomfortable listening, having to constantly adjust the volume. Is there a device or program that can automatically keep the audio output constant?

Robert Bowen, by email


There is and I suggest that you try a free Open Source utility called MP3Gain ( It uses a technique called statistical analyses to determine how loud the selected tracks will sound and adjusts or normalises each track so that the volume levels are all the same.


Inferior Ink

I use a laptop with an Advent A10 inkjet printer, purchased 4 years ago. Everything was great print-wise, until I used compatible inks. These proved to be useless so I purchased a set of original cartridges, costing nearly £50.00. Print quality is no longer very good. I have carried out a full maintenance check, but to no avail. What would you suggest?

Angela Milne, by email


It sounds as though the compatible cartridges were filled with inferior quality or the wrong sort of ink that may have partially blocked the print head. Normally when this happens there is little you can do, apart from having the print head replaced, however, this can cost more than the printer is worth. Over the years I have tried most of the DIY cleaning suggestions on the web with only very limited success but a kit called the Ultimate Print Head Nozzle Cleaning System, from Malta-based eCCo Clean (, looks quite promising. This involves giving the print head a good long soak in cleaning fluid then a small pump is used to ‘reverse purge’ (suck) cleaning fluid through the print nozzles. Since your printer is out of warranty you have little to lose, apart from the cost of the kit, which is around £14.00 (including delivery). Kits are also available for Brother, Canon, Epson, HP, Kodak and Lexmark models.


Culling Cookies

On my Windows XP PC I use the Firefox browser and every day I spend a couple of minutes deleting cookies, which have appeared during the day. Is there a method of deleting individual unwanted cookies from my new iPad Mini when I use Safari for searches?

Keith Hull, by email


Yes, go to Settings then tap Safari in the left hand column and then Advanced at the bottom of the right hand pane. Now tap Website data and all of cookies stored on you iPad are displayed. Simply swipe the cookies you want to get rid of and tap Delete. By the way, to save you this bother you can disable cookies altogether, or select the safer ‘From Third Parties…’. These options are also under Safari on the Settings menu. Firefox can be set to deleted cookies automatically when it is closed by going to Tools > Options > Privacy.


© R. Maybury 2014 2403

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