Ask Rick 304 12/04/14
My son and daughter-in-law-bought me a six
months’ subscription to Netflix. I registered immediately connected my iPad to
the TV using an HDMI cable and adaptor, tapped the icon and the Netflix website
duly appeared on the TV. When I tried to watch a film however, it ran for a
second or so and the message ‘Cannot Play Video The connected display is not
supported’ appeared on my iPad. I upgraded the HDMI cable and even attempted to
retrieve the latest version of the Netflix app but the same message appeared. I
rang Netflix support, who asked me which version of the iPad I had. It is an
iPad 3 and to my horror I was told Netflix only supports iPad 4. Apparently
there is a security issue, I cannot upgrade my iPad, nor can I afford a smart
TV, so am stuck with a subscription I cannot use.
Andrew Baxter, by email
It is difficult to say who is ultimately
responsible but if the growing number of fellow sufferers in the forums are
anything to go by neither Apple nor Netflix have been very helpful in
attempting to sort it out. Your particular problem is probably due to an update
of the Netflix app, rather than the version number of your iPad. Unfortunately
the old working app is no longer available through the normal channels and the
unofficial versions that are floating around the web can only be installed on
an iPad that has been hacked or jailbroken. Others with previously working
Netflix connections have been cut off following the release of iOS 7. In some
cases the latest version of the Netflix app (V5.2), in early March fixes both
issues. If not there are a couple of other things to try. Some users have got
it to work by going to the iPad’s Settings menu, then Apps, select the Netflix
app, switch the Wi-Fi option off and then back on again. Another possibility is
to change the HDMI adaptor and it appears that that the cheaper, non-Apple
branded 30-pin to HDMI adaptors, available from Amazon and ebay do work on an
iPad 3, iOS 7, Netflix V5.2 combination.
My Del desktop computer came with Microsoft
Office 2010 preinstalled. I have no disc but I do have the licence. I am
purchasing a laptop to replace the desktop and wonder if it is possible to
transfer Office to the new computer?
Liz Norsworthy, by email
Probably not, but there is an easy way to
check. The three most common types of licence for Microsoft Office are
designated FPP, OEM and MLK. FPP or Full Packaged Product covers the boxed,
retail version. OEM or Original Equipment Manufacturer is for licensed
pre-installed software, bundled by system builders and most likely the one that
you have. Lastly there is MLK or Medial Licensing Kit, which is for the trial
version of Office also pre-installed by system builders and unlocked when the
license fee is paid. Only FPP licenses can be transferred, but to see which one
you have check the code on the Product Key Label sticker, which should be on
the back of the case. If by some chance you have the FPP version all you have
to do is download the correct trial version of Office 2010 from http://goo.gl/WOJGwm, then for instructions on
how to transfer your licence go to http://goo.gl/Stgf.
I store my music library, a mixture of CD rips
and downloads as individual mp3 files on my PC and treat it like a hi-fi using
Windows Media Player. The problem is the sound level of individual tracks
varies considerably. This makes for uncomfortable listening, having to
constantly adjust the volume. Is there a device or program that can
automatically keep the audio output constant?
Robert Bowen, by email
There is and I suggest that you try a free Open
Source utility called MP3Gain (http://goo.gl/CGhz).
It uses a technique called statistical analyses to determine how loud the
selected tracks will sound and adjusts or normalises each track so that the
volume levels are all the same.
I use a laptop with an Advent A10 inkjet
printer, purchased 4 years ago. Everything was great print-wise, until I used
compatible inks. These proved to be useless so I purchased a set of original
cartridges, costing nearly £50.00. Print quality is no longer very good. I have
carried out a full maintenance check, but to no avail. What would you suggest?
Angela Milne, by email
It sounds as though the compatible cartridges
were filled with inferior quality or the wrong sort of ink that may have
partially blocked the print head. Normally when this happens there is little
you can do, apart from having the print head replaced, however, this can cost
more than the printer is worth. Over the years I have tried most of the DIY
cleaning suggestions on the web with only very limited success but a kit called
the Ultimate Print Head Nozzle Cleaning System, from Malta-based eCCo Clean (http://goo.gl/oYMgBP), looks quite promising.
This involves giving the print head a good long soak in cleaning fluid then a
small pump is used to ‘reverse purge’ (suck) cleaning fluid through the print
nozzles. Since your printer is out of warranty you have little to lose, apart
from the cost of the kit, which is around £14.00 (including delivery). Kits are
also available for Brother, Canon, Epson, HP, Kodak and Lexmark models.
On my Windows XP PC I use the Firefox browser
and every day I spend a couple of minutes deleting cookies, which have appeared
during the day. Is there a method of deleting individual unwanted cookies from
my new iPad Mini when I use Safari for searches?
Keith Hull, by email
Yes, go to Settings then tap Safari in the left
hand column and then Advanced at the bottom of the right hand pane. Now tap
Website data and all of cookies stored on you iPad are displayed. Simply swipe
the cookies you want to get rid of and tap Delete. By the way, to save you this
bother you can disable cookies altogether, or select the safer ‘From Third
Parties…’. These options are also under Safari on the Settings menu. Firefox
can be set to deleted cookies automatically when it is closed by going to Tools
> Options > Privacy.
© R. Maybury 2014 2403