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BOOT CAMP 438 (22/08/06)
Build your own Vista-Ready PC, part 3
We are now ready to start assembling the DT Mk
2 computer and in common with most DIY jobs the key to success is preparation.
However, before we begin a few words about
static discharge precautions. I have been handling static-sensitive devices for
more than 30 years and in all that time, and despite some very determined
attempts, I cannot recall zapping a single chip. Modern electronic devices are
very well protected but there is still a theoretical risk so here are a few
simple tips to keep you out of trouble.
Before starting work on the PC touch a nearby
radiator or any metal-cased appliance you know to be earthed (cooker,
refrigerator etc) and if you are really worried get an anti-static wrist strap,
(around £5.00 from Maplin). Keep
all parts in their antistatic bags or packing until they are needed and when
handling them avoid touching exposed metal contacts or components.
On a more general note, if something doesn’t
fit easily do not force it. Only a couple of items require anything more than
fingertip pressure to put together and I’ll tell you about those when we get to
them.
We’ll start by preparing the case; remove two
side panels -- they’re held in place by two Philips screws per side -- and put
them to one side for the duration.
The specified case is a ‘universal’ design that
can accommodate a range of different motherboards and we have to make a few
small modifications so it’s worth spending a few moments familiarising yourself
with the layout.
Looking into the box, (with the front panel on
the right), the racks or ‘bays’ on the right side are for the disc drives. The
large empty panel immediately in front of you is where the motherboard goes and
the small metal box at the top is the mains power supply unit or PSU.
A bundle of wires emerges from the back of the
PSU and these can be a real nuisance at this stage of the proceedings so tuck
or tie them back out of the way. The same goes for the cables in the bottom of
the case, which are for the front panel lights, switches and sockets.
On the rear of the case note the row of
blanked-off expansion cards slots; we’ll be using them to locate some holes in
a moment so for the purposes of this article we’ll number them, from top to
bottom, 1 to 7.
The first job is to replace a panel on the rear
of the case with one supplied with the motherboard. The panel in question is
the escutcheon for the sockets on the rear of the motherboard (mouse, keyboard,
video, audio, USB, LAN etc). The panel is immediately below the mains socket
and measures approximately 15 x 4 cm.
To remove it simply twist and bend it a little,
back and forth a few times, until the small joints holding it in place
fracture. Don’t be rough it will come out and try not to bend the metalwork
surrounding the panel. If necessary use a pair or pliers, just be careful of
the sharp edges. Once the panel is out press the new one in from inside the
case. Make sure it is the right way up (check the labels on the socket holes)
and properly seated; it should protrude through the case by around 1mm.
Step two, pop out a blanking plate on the front
for the DVD drive (and one for the floppy drive, if you are using one). These
are held in place by small lugs and they push out from behind. Once again watch
out for sharp edges. It’s traditional to have the drive at the top but there’s
nothing to stop you using any of the four available bays.
The last job on the case is to fit three small
brass mounting pillars for the motherboard. The case has three fixed mounting
points and holes for as many others as may be needed, depending on the size and
type of motherboard.
You will find the pillars in the bag of nuts
and bolts that comes with the motherboard. The first one goes into the threaded
hole between the two fixed mounting points towards the rear of the case
(adjacent to blanked expansion card slot number 3 on the back panel). Screw in
until finger-tight then give it a nip with the pliers. The second pillar goes
into the threaded hole in line with the fixed mounting points next to expansion
slot 1 and the one close to the bottom right hand corner of the PSU module.
Pillar 3 lines up with pillar 2 and expansion slot 4, so there should be an
empty hole between pillars 2 and 3.
That’s it for this week, in part 4 we’ll finish
off the assembly and start connecting the cables and that job will be a lot
easier if you follow the advice in this week’s Top Tip.
NEXT WEEK – Build your own PC, part 4
JARGON FILTER
ANTI STATIC WRIST STRAP
Conductive strap, worn around the wrist, with a wire (in series
with a resistor) that connects to an electrical earth (radiator etc) to safely
dissipate static charges that builds up on the user’s body and clothes
EXPANSION
CARD
Circuit
board, e.g. video adaptor, modem etc. that plugs into a socket on the
motherboard, with the card’s connecting sockets protruding through the rear of
the case
STATIC SENSITIVE
Electronic components and devices that can be damaged or destroyed
by high voltage static discharges
TOP TIP
The manual that comes
with your motherboard may not make much sense to you right now but there are a
couple of pages that you should look at before tackling final assembly next
week. The layout diagram on page 2 is
worth getting to know as it shows the location of all the sockets and
connectors we’ll be using. However, pay particular attention to the bottom
right hand corner of the motherboard, as this is where we will be making a few
fiddly connections.
The System Panel Header
(item 16) is where most of the cables from the front panel switches and lights
go and it gets a bit crowded; there’s a more detailed diagram on page 18. The
front panel cable connectors are labelled so match them with the connection
diagram, it helps to make a note of the colours of the wires and this will save
you a lot of messing around when it comes to fitting them in place.
---end---
© R. Maybury 2006, 0908
Part 1 2 4 5 6
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